Fanning Island
Bob Evans
Fanning Island is an
atoll of 3 islands, each about 10 miles long and half a mile wide. There
is no electricity, plumbing, or phones. The one road is a sandy 2-track
path used by the 1 pickup truck on the island. The islanders live in grass
roof huts, unchanged for the past 100 years. NCL built a school, a
warehouse style building, in exchange for beach rights. There is no doctor
or dentist on the island. There are pictures and descriptions at the
Pacific Island Relief Org site: www.interpac.net/~fanning/
Passengers are
tendered ashore, and tender tickets are handed out on a first come basis
starting at 8am the day before Fanning. We went at 10am and got tender #
12. On Fanning day they call 2 tender tickets at a time, and we were
called at 9:15. There is no need to get up early for a lower tender
ticket, everyone gets ashore by 10am, and the last tender back is 2:30pm,
enough time to do everything. If you miss your tender they let you on a
later one. The tender ride is about 10 minutes over a rolling sea. Oh, one
tender tip, don't take the red/white enclosed tender from the midship
gangway, it's stifling hot because the breeze can't get to the passengers,
and everyone gets off panting, a bad start to an already hot island. Take
the larger blue/white open air tender from the forward gangway, and you'll
feel a nice breeze all the way in.
When you step off the
pier, the islander’s village and their craft area are to the left, and to
the right is the NCL area for passengers with 3 or 4 small sandy beaches,
with beach chairs, and several barbeque areas for the free lunch. Go to
the last beach for the most space. Drinks are charged to your cabin, but
there is free cold water behind the second beach. Also behind the second
or third beach is a pavilion where the islanders put on a dance show, lots
of action and energy.
On the left of the
dock the craft area has perhaps 50 tables set up. The islanders are rather
shy, and will not approach you to sell anything, a big change from places
like Jamaica and Mexico. They know enough English to tell you how much
things cost, but that's about it, although a few have better English. They
will smile and say hello if spoken to. There are a few flies buzzing
around as noted by other reviewers, but no biting insects that we found.
Most of the crafts appear home-made, with 2 exceptions that we saw. There
are T-shirts for $15, which are 3/$10 on any other island. And they sold
those conical shells that have a scene carved in the top, on a pink
background, as if the shell coating has been peeled away to reveal a pink
underlayer, and then a scene carved in it. Those are sold at every tourist
trap we saw on the cruise. So some stuff is getting imported.
We heard the school
was desperately in need of supplies, and I'm in education, so we took a
few things, colored chalk, stickers, pencils, etc. We got chatting with
one of the dads at the craft area who spoke good English, we gave him a
Canadian flag clothing pin to wear which put a big smile on his face
[he'll probably trade it for something later], and when we asked him if we
could meet a teacher he told his son to take us to find one of the
teachers in the village. He found one of the teachers, Tara, on one of the
paths, and we gave him a frisbee which produced a big smile, and he was
gone. We told Tara what we had brought, and she took up back to her hut,
and we sat down at a table outside the door, and had a good visit. She
spoke good English, which she learned at a high school on another island.
She got a piece of paper and wrote down what we brought and what it was
for, to show the headmaster. I don't think she'd ever seen stickers or
clothing pins. We gave her a pin saying "Kids First" with an apple on top,
and she asked why the apple. We told her about the North American custom
of kids trying to please the teacher by bringing her an apple for a snack,
which seemed strange to her. Maybe she didn't know what apples were … we
were told most of the islanders have seen nothing of the outside world,
being isolated in the central Pacific. We had to show her how to put the
clothing pin on, and she was careful to figure out how the squeeze-clasp
behind it worked. She
said paper is scarce, and the kids do their schoolwork on hand-held chalk
boards, like in N. America about 100 years ago. We got thinking later that
they could perhaps use some acetate boards, the kind you write on with a
no-ink pen, and erase it by pulling up the clear acetate cover sheet.
Perhaps they would rather have some scribblers or notepads, but we tried
to think of gifts that would be easy for us to pack and transport.
So we took some
pictures and said our good-byes, and strolled further down the path along
the beach, coming across a few more craft tables, and an empty primary
"school" under a large thatched roof, the teacher's name on a log beam,
and the kids mats in rows. We were reluctant to walk through their hut
areas, that seemed to be their personal space and it felt like we were in
someone's back yard. After a bit we went back to the lunch area, feeling a
bit embarrassed at the excess of food there, when the islanders live on
coconut, breadfruit, and fish.
NCL rents bikes for
$10, but there is no reason to do that, there is nowhere to get in a
hurry, and it just works up a bigger sweat. Also, the path has puddles and
the wheels throw up sand and water on the riders backs (no fenders).
We read a couple
reviews by people who where "disgusted" at being taken to a scene of such
poverty. If you think this would bother you, you should probably just stay
to the right of the dock in the barbeque/beach area.
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